2010年6月30日星期三

Vivienne Westwood 品牌簡介 及 資訊‧Brands' Profile & Information

英國時裝設計師,時裝界的“The mother of punk."” 。

出身於一個來自北英格蘭的工人家庭。

她曾是Punk運動的顯赫人物,她的成就要歸於她的第二任丈夫-英國著名搖滾樂隊“性槍手”的組建者和經紀人的啟發與指點。

她使搖滾具有了典型的外表,撕口子或挖洞的Ť卹,拉鍊,色情口號,金屬掛鍊等,並一直影響至今。

她和麥克拉文一起在倫敦國王大道開了她的第一家服裝店,店名為“盡情搖滾” ,

專門出售那些街頭少年們所穿著的服裝。

隨後他們的店幾經更名,並且專門為搖滾樂手和Punk製作服裝。

創造與叛逆一直是她生活中心的所在。

由於她的推動,Punk文化對高級時裝形成了革命性的影響。

由於她以徹底否定的粗暴方式給予法國傳統高級時裝以極大打擊,

同時也為英國時裝在國際時裝界爭得了一席之地,因此,英女皇為她頒發了金質勳章。

她始終是一名具有革命意義的服裝設計師。

多年以來被看作服裝界的另類人士,擁有狂放的想像和大膽的創造力。

她的那些式樣已經匯入主流的設計理念中:

不對稱T卹,剪破,磨損的毛邊布料,內衣外穿,短上衣下的緊身裝,克里尼迷你裙,緊身長筒裙,束帶式長褲,木屐式坡形高跟鞋... ... 。

她影響了幾代人,也影響了幾代設計師。她還曾為電影“離開拉斯維加斯”設計服裝,還為歌劇“三便士” , “村莊”設計過服裝。
放眼當代英國服飾界Vivienne Westwood是個中翹楚,她崛起於60年代末期。

她開設前衛的服飾店鋪,祭出反體制的權杖,引起世人注目。

英國給人的印象總是兩種極端:一端是英國的皇家形象,一板一眼;

另一端則是身體語言非常活潑的龐克,有著五顏六色的叛逆衣裝和髮型。

她的設計風格已經具有代表英國的地位,就像披頭四的音樂,迷你裙和街頭流行一般。

肉慾主義的裝著,浪蕩不拘的模樣,圖樣血淋淋的Ť卹,假皮的燈籠褲,

不受傳統束縛,絕對抵抗到底的態度,就是Vivienne Westwood演繹個人品牌時的重要戲碼,

例如以中小型加以轉化調味的服裝,印滿精神標語的Ť卹,撕裂海盜服的外觀, Vivienne Westwood也為70的搖磙與80年代的新浪漫主義做了明確的註解。
即使用“頹廢” , “變態” , “離經叛道”等字眼來形容Vivienne Westwood的服裝,也絕不過分。

因為她那種長短不一,稀奇古怪,沒有章法的服裝著實讓西方時裝界大吃一驚,

人們可以不恭維她的傑作,但不能不被她的獨特的設計思想而震懾。

不管對Vivienne Westwood的設計或褒或貶,但人們不得不承認她那罕見的,

乖僻古怪的設計思想對當今服裝界的貢獻。

她的設計迎合了八十年代時髦青年的歡迎,尤其是倫敦的青年“Punk” , “特迪哥兒” ,

使得Vivienne Westwood的服裝成為具有世界影響。

海福爾德評論說:

“她是過去十年裡英國最有影響的設計家,她的設計思想從根本上改變了我們的服裝觀念。 ”

儘管她的設計沒有成為巴黎時裝界的主宰,也未能形成潮流,

但她的影響主要是在觀念上的,她的設計觀不但極大地衝擊了傳統時裝界,而且代表了激進的年輕一代。

某種意義說,她像六十年代的瑪麗奎恩特一樣,給予這個時裝世界劇烈的撞擊。
如何評價Vivienne Westwood的設計呢?

對她的創作的評價,連她自己也說不清楚,或不耐煩。

她有藝術家的創作激情,但缺少政治家的清晰頭腦。

不過正如她所堅信的,文化反映了社會,而時裝則是社會文化中必然顯露的一部分,

她的創作所代表的正是現代社會的所謂“亞文化群。 ”

正是她的創作思想基於政治上的無政府主義和藝術上的反傳統精神,

八十年代,她以“Punk”為調色板,創造出為現代某些青年喜愛的服飾,她也曾因此被稱為“Punk”之母~


Dame Vivienne Westwood, DBE, RDI (born 8 April 1941) is a British fashion designer largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.

She is linked with the Sex Pistols via Malcolm McLaren and their SEX boutique on Kings Road, Chelsea in London during the 1970s. The shop was at 430 Kings Road.

Early life
Westwood was born Vivienne Isabel Swire in the village of Tintwistle, Cheshire (now in the county of Derbyshire) on 8 April 1941. She studied at the Harrow School of Art, later to become the University of Westminster, for one term. Vivienne went on to attend Middlesex University Trent Park College and later taught at a primary school in North London. She loved teaching.

Malcolm McLaren
Vivienne's first husband was Derek Westwood. Their three-year marriage produced two children; a daughter named Rose and a son named Ben. Westwood then met Malcolm McLaren, who became the manager of the punk band The Sex Pistols. Westwood and McLaren lived in a council flat in Clapham and had a son they named Joseph. Westwood continued to teach until 1971, when Malcolm decided to open a shop at 430 King's Road - Let It Rock (also known as Sex and Sell, Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die, Seditionaries). Westwood began to sell her outrageous designs in the shop. During this period, Westwood, McLaren, and artist Jamie Reid were influenced by the Situationists. Westwood still owns this shop, which is now known as World's End, from which she sells her Anglomania label.

Punk
The English Punk style began to gain attention when the Sex Pistols wore clothes from Westwood and McLaren's shop at their first gig. The "punk style" included BDSM fashion, bondage gear, safety pins, razor blades, bicycle or lavatory chains on clothing and spiked dog collars for jewelry, as well as outrageous make-up and hair. Essential design elements include the adoption of traditional elements of Scottish design such as tartan fabric. Amongst the more unusual elements of her style is the use of historical 17th and 18th century cloth cutting principles, and reinterpreting these in, for instance, radical cutting lines to mens trousers. Use of these traditional elements make the overall effect of her designs more shocking. Other influences in Westwood's work have included Peru, the feminine figure, velvet and knitwear.

Westwood and McLaren worked together to revolutionize fashion and their impact is still strongly felt today. Westwood has five exclusively-owned shops; three in London, one in Leeds, and one in Milan. Franchise stores are located in Liverpool, Newcastle, Glasgow, three in Manchester and most recently, in FH Mall, Nottingham (20 March 2008), and in Blake Street, York (11 September 2008). Westwood's themes have included Savage (1981), Hobo and Buffalo (1982), and Pirate. Her latest collection was themed "Gold and Treasure, Adventure and Exploration."

Artistic collections
The first major Retrospective of her work was shown in 2004? at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, and the National Gallery of Australia. The exhibition, created from approximately 145 complete outfits grouped into the themes from the early 70s to the present day, was drawn from her own personal archive and the V&A's extensive collection. They range from early punk garments to glamorous "historical" evening gowns.

Her Autumn/Winter 2005/06 Propaganda Collection drew inspiration from her archive, reinterpreting designs using Wolford exclusive knitting technology. Westwood has worked in close collaboration with Wolford since 2003. In 2006, she collaborated with Nine West, whose shoes are not designed directly by Westwood, however the Nine West brand name shares its label with Westwood. Her hats for Gold Label and MAN are created by Prudence Millinery for Vivienne Westwood.

In December 2003, she and the Wedgwood pottery company launched a series of tea sets featuring her designs.

Artistic influence
Throughout her career, Westwood has been influential in launching the careers of other designers into the British fashion industry. Most notably, she employed the services of Patrick Cox to design shoes for her Clint Eastwood collection in 1984. The result was a prototype for nine-inch-heeled shoes like the ones worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell when she fell during a Westwood fashion show in Paris in 1994.

In May 2006, Westwood wrote a poem and provided personal photographs eulogising Swallows Wood, a Nature Reserve near Tintwistle where she was born and grew up. The Reserve is threatened with destruction by the construction of the Longdendale Bypass. Also has her own perfume line

Sex and the City
Demonstrating the impact of her long career, Westwood's designs were featured in the 2008 film adaptation of the award winning television series Sex and the City.

In the movie, Carrie Bradshaw becomes engaged to long term lover Mr. Big. Being a writer at Vogue, her editor invites her to model wedding dresses for an upcoming article called "The Last Single Girl". Despite being invited to participate in the making of the movie, Westwood was unimpressed with the costuming by renowned stylist Patricia Field. She walked out of the film's London premiere after 10 minutes, publicly criticising the clothing featured as being frumpy and boring. The wedding dress has subsequently become widely recognised as one of the movie's most iconic features and has led Westwood to approach the producers about being involved in making a sequel.

Political involvement
Westwood is also widely known as a political activist. On Easter Sunday 2008, she campaigned in person at the biggest Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament demonstration in ten years, at the Atomic Weapons Establishment, Aldermaston in Berkshire, UK.

In September 2005, Westwood joined forces with the British civil rights group Liberty and launched exclusive limited design T-shirts and baby wear bearing the slogan I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don't arrest me. Westwood said she was supporting the campaign and defending habeas corpus. "When I was a schoolgirl, my history teacher, Mr. Scott, began to take classes in civic affairs. The first thing he explained to us was the fundamental rule of law embodied in habeas corpus. He spoke with pride of civilization and democracy. The hatred of arbitrary arrest by the lettres de cachet of the French monarchy caused the storming of the Bastille. We can only take democracy for granted if we insist on our liberty," she said. The sale of the T-shirts raised funds for the organisation. Dame Vivienne has recently stated on television that she has transferred her long standing support for the Labour Party to the Conservative Party, over the issues of civil liberties and human rights.

Recognition
In 2007 Glossopdale Community College named one of its newly created houses, Westwood, after Vivienne. Westwood accepted a DBE in the 2006 New Year's Honours List for services to fashion, and has thrice earned the award for British Designer of the Year. On a more personal level, Westwood is the godmother of highfashion model and socialite lady Elissa Spencer-Wilhelmsen Ainsworth, and was the one who discovered designer Rosamund Lodge-Ainsworth who happens to be Lady Elissa's sister-in-law, after marrying lord Philip Spencer-Wilhelmsen Ainsworth. Westwood and the bride designed the wedding dress and she attended the wedding with her sons.

Children
Ben Westwood (photographer), son of Vivienne and Derek Westwood, is a photographer of erotica.
Joseph Corre, son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, is the founder of lingerie brand Agent Provocateur.
Rose Westwood.

Controversy
Notorious for going knicker-less, she caused a stir in 1992 when she came to collect the OBE, and twirled to reveal all. After being made a Dame in 2006 by the Prince of Wales she disclosed that she was knicker-less again.

1 則留言:

  1. Thank you for choosing my photo of Vivienne Westwood. Mattia Passeri (on facebook Mattia Baldelli Passeri) ;))) Peace&Love

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